Brake light stay on?

While driving my brake lights stay on, and then when I break they go off. I'm not sure what causes this or what I should do. I'm worried I will get rear ended because of this so I would like to get it fixed as soon as possible. Thank you for your advise.

With the brake pedal released, the brake lights (on the back of the car) stay on. If I press the pedal slightly they go off. Then if I press it further down (how you would if you were stopping a little quickly) they come on. I have read a number of people online having the same problem, and the answer is to "adjust the brake light switch at the top of the brake pedal". However, on my car there is no switch there. There is a metal rod that sticks about 6 inches off the left side of the brake pedal, perpendicular to the brake pedal lever. When you press the pedal it turns a white plastic switch (looks like if you make a "peace" sign with your fingers). That is the only switch I see anywhere near the brake pedal under the dash.

This is what the switch I'm talking about looks like. it's the only switch I see. on the 2006 have they combined the sensor that allows you to shift out of park with the sensor for the rear brake lights? this is the only switch I see that is affected by pressing the brake pedal.

this switch is NOT mounted on the brake pedal or lever. it is to the left about 6 or 8 inches, and is rotated by a metal rod that sticks off the side of the brake pedal lever and inserts between the two arms on the above switch.

Hmm, I also noticed the cruise control no longer works. When I press the on/off button the light does not come on on the dash, and the set button doesn't do anything.

I'll try disconnecting it and report back. Thank you so much for your help.

Postwick,

I had this problem and they had to replace the BCM it cost me $462.00 I wish I saw this post first I would have got a used one.

Thanks,
Chris

No I have not resolved it yet. I just make sure to press the pedal down enough that the brake lights come on when I'm stopping/stopped.

I called the repair shop I usually use and they said the sensor is a dealer-only part, and I know what that means $$$.

I've changed the brake switch above the pedal and that cost me about $22 from the dealership and no fix.

I did some troubleshooting last night and I found the fuses and relays that interface the brake light system. I swapped a brake relay with the trunk release relay (they are identical) and so far I haven't had problems with my brakes. I've noticed my trunk not responding as quickly, but that might be wishful thinking.

I'm keeping close eye on it, so if anything changes I'll let you know.

I know this question is old but hope someone may be able to use this.
#08-05-22-009: Intermittently Brake Lights (Stop Lamp) Do Not Function Correctly, Extended Travel to Shift Out of Park, Cruise Control Inoperative, DTC C0161/C0277 Set (Perform Repair as Outlined) - (Dec 4, 2008)

Subject: Intermittently Brake Lights (Stop Lamp) Do Not Function Correctly, Extended Travel to Shift Out of Park, Cruise Control Inoperative, DTCs C0161/C0277 Set (Perform Repair as Outlined)

Models: 2004-2007 Chevrolet Malibu, Malibu Maxx

2008 Chevrolet Malibu Classic

2005-2009 Pontiac G6

2007-2009 Saturn AURA

...

Condition
Some customers may comment that intermittently the brake lights do not function correctly. Other symptoms may include extended pedal travel required to shift out of PARK, cruise control does not function correctly, and DTC C0161 and/or C0277 may be set.

Cause
The most likely cause of this condition is high resistance due to terminal fretting corrosion in the body control module (BCM) C2 connector (specifically pins C2-18, C2-31 and C2-59).

Correction
DO NOT replace the BCM for this condition. Disconnecting the C2 connector, adding dielectric silicone grease and reconnecting the C2 connector per the procedure below will correct the high resistance condition due to terminal fretting corrosion.

Remove the right side front floor console side trim panel to access to the Body Control Module (BCM).
Locate the C2 connector on the BCM.
Unlatch the C2 connector and disconnect the C2 connector from the BCM.
Reconnect the C2 connector back on the BCM and re-latch.
Repeat Steps 3 and 4 (this step cleans up the terminal fretting corrosion).
Using the Tech 2 Â, verify the brake pedal position sensor (BPPS) voltage is between:
"Â 0.88V - 2.11V (for 2004-2006 model years)

"Â 0.73V - 1.47V (for 2007-2009 model years)

Check for proper operation of the brake lights.
"Â If the brakes lights are operating properly, remove the C2 connector again from the BCM and proceed to Step 8.

"Â If the brake lights are not operating properly, proceed to Step 12.

Apply dielectric lubricant (clear gel) GM P/N 12377900 (In Canada, use P/N 10953529) on the BCM C2 pins (apply with a one-inch nylon bristle brush) on all the C2 connector pins (this will treat the pins against fretting corrosion).
Reconnect the C2 connector back on the BCM and re-latch.
Reinstall the right side front floor console side trim panel.
Using the Tech 2 Â, check that the BPPS ratio is equal to BPPS learned home when the brake pedal is not depressed.
"Â If they are equal, brake lamps should be operating correctly and no further steps are necessary.

"Â If they are not equal, perform the Brake Pedal Position Sensor Calibration procedure in SI to complete the repair.

Check the brake lights for proper operation. If incorrect, refer to SI and perform normal diagnostics.
Source(s):
gm tech

I just realized my brake lights were doing the same thing. Can anyone put this in simple terms for me, that I can try myself?

What do you want to try yourself, I took mine to a shop with the tsb and it took them about half an hour and no more problems. The connection is in the passenger foot well, in the center console area by the passengers left foot. The c2 connector, my mechanic said was labeled j2. Just look for the 2. Unplug, plug, unplug, plug and check your brake lights. If they work, unplug one more time add the special grease plug in and forget about it.

We found the resister fuse in the fuse box next to the left fender and unplugged it several times and the lights started working normally. We coated the terminals with dielectric grease and have our fingers crossed but it seems to have done the trick.

J2 connector was the trick on one I have fought with all morn. Thanks guys. :)

My car is currently experiencing this problem. Have been to the shop 5 times over the last 2 weeks and spent LOTS of $$$$$. Has this problem ever reoccurred for you?

Hey guys and Gals, the problem is the brake switch itself, meaning the brake switch sticks. I read this post about a year ago, and the answers many answers I read scared me.

Reason being, all the answers and all the solutions were all over the map. The real issue is the brake switch gets sticky/dirty and needs to be lubricated/cleaned.

I took it to a Chevrolet dealership ($120.00 total charge), they (Chevrolet Dealership)claimed to have replaced the brake switch and not even two weeks went by, and the brake lights started coming on again without notice, rendering the cruise control useless.

I returned the 2006 Malibu back, and they questioned me why didn't I return the car sooner (the lights came on not even 2 days after repair, but not all the time.)

My reply was, well I have to work and why didn't you fix it right the first time.

A few hours later they (Dealership) called and said they couldn't find anything wrong with the car, all they did was lubricate the brake light switch.

It has been about a year since the lubrication and the problem has not returned and the cruise control works like its supposed to.

D-1

I have a malibu 2006, the brake lights were staying on, we replaced the relay switch still wouldn't work. Then we read that the brakes had to be re calibrated with a tech 2 scan tool from a dealership. That worked for a while now another year has passed and they have come back on again.

I have been reading about it and most come to the conclusion, it's a connection on the right side console, which was stated that even a dealership noted that the c2 connection